What makes a Grand Feu enamel dial so unique?
One of the first things that strikes you is the Streamliner’s show-stopping Aqua Blue fumé Grand Feu enamel dial. Creating Grand Feu enamel is the fine art of fusing glass to metal. Often regarded as one of the most challenging crafts to master in the world of luxury watchmaking, H. Moser & Cie. are renowned for using this opulent effect in their unique dials, pushing its possibilities each time with bold, original palettes.
Crafting the Grand Feu enamel dial
The process begins with a wafer thin gold disc onto which a pattern is meticulously laser-engraved, creating a ‘hammered’ effect with depth and texture. The desired colour pigments – in the case of the Aqua Blue dial, three rich blue tones – are finely crushed, washed and dried, to be delicately applied individually, layer by layer, by master enamellers.
The process of the Grand Feu Enamel Dial
The pigments are applied in such a way that the colours oxidise and meld together when heated without any pixelation. This creates an ombré effect unique to each timepiece. The lighter shades in the centre gradually deepen towards the outside of the dial. To complete the process and create the renowned H. Moser & Cie. fumé finish, the translucent Grand Feu dial is fired at least twelve times at temperatures upwards of 800 degrees, and then carefully polished. It takes careful expertise and limitless patience, but the result is a work of art for the wrist. The striking visual effect combined with the dial’s intricate texture evokes a breathtaking view of deep ocean waters.
Crafting the Grand Feu enamel dial
The deep Aqua Blue tones of the Grand Feu dial were chosen to complement the cool steel of the timepiece’s cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet. The dial has no logo, allowing the Grand Feu blue enamel to take centre stage. It features minimalistic steel applique indices and a lacquered small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, offering a beautiful contrast with the Aqua Blue base dial.
The first Streamliner with a Grand Feu enamel dial
H. Moser & Cie. have showcased their enamel artistry before – the Endeavour Centre Seconds Lime Green and the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater are standout examples – but this new timepiece marks the first time the Grand Feu effect has been featured in the company’s Streamliner collection. Combined with the watch’s sleeker, understated dimensions and its powerhouse new calibre, the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel is fired up and ready to go.
The HMC 500: micro yet mighty
The subtle but significant changes to the classic Streamliner case were made possible by the size of H. Moser & Cie.’s groundbreaking new movement, the HMC 500. This manufacturer-made marvel is the brand’s first to feature a platinum micro-rotor. In fact it’s their smallest movement this century. The creative designers at H. Moser & Cie. have seized the opportunity of a more compact calibre and reimagined the model’s lines to enhance its sleek appearance. These sleek proportions were crafted to take advantage of this compact innovation and the reduced size of the calibre.
The HMC 500 is a real powerhouse. Designed to be slim without compromising on performance, the partially skeletonized movement measures 30mm in diameter and 4.5mm in thickness, and operates at 21,600vph. Made from solid platinum, the micro-rotor is mounted on a ball bearing, equipped with a bi-directional pawl winding system, and offers sufficient barrel torque to efficiently provide a power reserve of 74 hours.
Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., recently offered his insight into the inspiration behind the HMC 500: ‘Our starting objective was to have a movement that was slim yet high performance. We spent a great deal of time working to optimise the dimensions, which is why we decided to integrate a micro-rotor for the first time in our history. We had to develop new smaller, slimmer components and mechanisms’. While the HMC 500 itself is 100% Moser, H. Moser & Cie.’s partners Agenhor and Precision Engineering AG joined forces with the brand in building these smaller components, including the movement’s miniaturised escapement.
Adorned with the traditional Moser stripes and an anthracite grey coating, every element of the movement reflects the brand’s meticulous attention to detail. Displaying the company’s hallmark on the micro-rotor is not just a mark of authenticity; it’s a statement of pride in their craftsmanship and technical prowess. H. Moser & Cie.’s status as an integrated manufacturer has allowed them to embrace ambition and push the boundaries of luxury watchmaking time and time again, but the HMC 500 opens fresh possibilities, setting the scene for progressively compact movements and new complications in the years to come.
A classic, reimagined
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds pushes the Streamliner collection into a new dimension. As you know, the Streamliner family takes its design cues – as well as its name – from the fluid lines and dynamic curves of historic high-speed locomotives from the 1920s and 30s, a time when slim, concise timepieces were firmly in fashion. This new release further elevates the classic Streamliner shape that collectors know and love, with its proportions perfectly complementing the new calibre.
The meticulously crafted dimensions of the new Streamliner speak volumes about H. Moser & Cie.’s attention to detail. Made of steel and measuring 39mm in diameter, its cushion-shaped case creates an unmistakable impression of understated sophistication. To be perfectly suited to its movement, the case has been made smaller by 1mm in width and 0.9mm in thickness. The sides of the case flow elegantly from top to bottom and dial to bezel, with a softened transition between the case and the bracelet that elevates the timepiece’s versatility and wearability. The integrated steel bracelet, featuring uniquely articulated mono-links, is elegantly arced to extend the curves of the case. All of these striking touches come together to elevate the watch’s allure.
The unveiling of the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel marks the beginning of a new chapter for H. Moser & Cie. One that combines an illustrious history and a forward-thinking vision. This expansion towards slimmer models provides a new platform for creative expression and sets the stage for further innovation. So watch this space.
Blending form and function
With the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, H. Moser & Cie. is doing what it does best: using sophisticated, artisanal techniques in refreshingly elegant and unpretentious designs and combining them with the latest groundbreaking technology. The result is a show-stopping timepiece that embodies a perfect blend of form and function and radiates contemporary elegance.
